$22 for a Cornish game hen? $26 for seared 'ahi salad? This is what I have been subjected to in my ongoing search for accessible creative cuisine here on 'Oahu. What we have so far is a sprinkling of places like Grand Cafe and Nico's that certainly offer a relief for our wallets, but hardly much else is out there. Fine-dining is easily found, despite the lack of excellence in most of it. I don't mind the occasional hamburger steak, but more often I crave the simple but creatively concocted kind of food available in the rest of America. Where can you find a cute little place for good espresso and a flaky pain au chocolat in the morning? How about a croque monsieur or roasted eggplant panino at lunch? Or a delicious stump of baked goat cheese atop fresh locally grown lettuces for less than $10? Or bold but beautifully crafted works of pastry, like ones found at SF's Citizen Cake? Granted, kudos go out to Stage and Cassis for offering something refreshingly new, but despite that the culinary scene remains nearly stagnant. And I think part of the problem is locals are afraid of change. It's the Asian mentality of "Why change what's already good?", and we've got ourselves in a bloody rut, and I'm sure I'm not the only one sick of it. How do we know we can't make what we have BETTER? Come on, people.
Great post and I totally agree. People in Hawaii are seriously lacking in adventure with regards to dining. Most locals would rather spend $25 on a crap all-you-can-eat buffet because they can stuff their face with as much food as they want, even though the food tastes like sh*t. Look at all the people that you know who goes to Vegas, then comes back RAVING about the buffet at "whatever-hotel" is soooo ono! How many locals does anyone know that has gone to Vegas, and returned raving about the food at Joel Robuchon at the MGM, Alex at the Wynn, or Michael Mina at the Bellagio? Out of all the peolpe I know of, only a one or two besides me. How many people do you know that have gone to another popular destination for Hawaii people (SF) and have raved about eating at Gary Danko, Jardiniere, or Fleur de Lys?
And the supposed "top" restaurants in Hawaii don't help. Take Alan Wongs for example. Except for a few items, that menu has not changed since I think ever. I can see leaving some signature items like the Ginger crusted Onaga on there, but some of the stuff (like the penne pasta) isn't even that good! I haven't gone there since I think 2000 because the food just isn't very innovative. It was back in the mid to late 90's but not anymore. Like you said, the only places doing any sort of culinary innovation is Stage and Chef Mavro's two restaurants.
Also, part of the problem is the local mentality, that food is mostly viewed upon as being sustenance and value. Creativity is out the window. Specialty ingredients is out the window. As long as it has shoyu, ginger, hoisin, etc. it sounds appealing and local people will order it because they're familiar with those tastes.
Posted by: rza | June 03, 2007 at 12:49 PM
Hey Rza, thanks for your thoughtful feedback. And you're absolutely right; the people I know who've gone to Sonoma ate at BURGER JOINTS, never once bothering to try COPIA or Thomas Keller's Bouchon. I spent a night in Alan Wong's kitchen to observe and absorb, and when I tasted the sauce for that penne dish, it was merely mediocre.
And yes, locals always ooh and aah at anything with hoisin and ginger, rarely something "different" like porcini mushrooms or duck confit. *sigh*
Posted by: TheKCCFoodie | June 03, 2007 at 07:08 PM