OWCH!

Frank Bruni, feared critic of the New York Times, makes an excellent commentary on over-glorified chefs, paying special attention to those who've over the years become so famous they fail to remember the fundamentals of the kitchen. I am eagerly awaiting Sunday night, when Food Network's new series "The Next Iron Chef" airs its premier episode, but apparently Bruni's already caught an early glimpse, as he amusingly recalls Traci des Jardins' bewilderment at having to filet a salmon and debone a chicken. So she says she "doesn't handle such chores often anymore." CHORES?! There goes her hope of winning. Because to me, throughout his or her career, a true chef should always remain humble enough to remember the tasks they began with. How else would they have been able to advance? In one of my favorite books, the Dornenburgs' Becoming a Chef, one pretty famous chef, whose name I shall refrain from divulging, says she doesn't "have time" to do prep work at her restaurant because she's "too important." How disgusting.

Michael Symon, another contender for the spot of Iron Chef, started off with his adorable eclectic bistro, Lola in Cleveland, and in recreating his earlier recipes, I grew to respect him. But now with two other ventures, one rather far away in New York, can he sustain his humility? Even Thomas Keller (I think at this point in time there is no need to say from which restaurant he comes from) is expanding into frozen food territory, and to me, I worry excessively about him becoming a "sell-out," one who has strayed so far from his original vision that he's lost his integrity (*cough* Wolfgang *ah-choo!* Puck!). I continue to be amazed by his food, so gorgeously illustrated in both cookbooks, and I hope to dine at TFL for my 21st birthday, but sadly I feel my experience could be marred by the fact he might not even be in California that evening.

My deepest affection remains with those who have stuck true to their roots, refused to be bigger for any sake, and still cook every night in their own restaurant with soul and gusto. Examples include my current boss, of course, Stefano Cianfrini, Dennis Leary (Canteen, SF), Lachlan Patterson (Frasca, CO), Nate Appleman (A16, SF), Joey Campanaro (Little Owl, NYC), and Alan Takasaki (Le Bistro, Aina Haina). And of course, eternal respect for the faithful cooks and owners of all the little trattorias, osterias, bistros, and cafes in Europe.

Comments

[Chris]

The beauty of being able to expand and keep a certain standard of quality and excellence is indeed the ultimate challenge. A michelin star is an unbelievable achievement, with his expansion Thomas Keller has held a total of 7 in unison. Amazing. I do believe there are some chefs who are able to trust the people who have been there learning the technique and philosophy as Thomas has with Corey Lee of TFL and Jonathan Benno of Per se. If you are able to get out to the laundry or to Per se, the experience will not miss a beat because Thomas Keller is no longer searing you whole roasted Foie or mounting the "mac and Cheese" u are about to enjoy. Even if you do miss him, ask for a tour of the kitchen and u may just catch a glimpse with live feed video cameras in Napa and New York. Control and organization is what fuels the continual quest for perfection. I agree with the romanticism of chef- driven restaurants, you may want to check out The Dining Room at The Ritz Carlton SF. Ron Sigel is someone I have had the opportunity of working with for a couple years. His devotion to one restaurant is admirable. If you ever want to experience a chef of his caliber cooking on the line, searing your piece of Foie, please make a visit. He works the line.

Chris

[Paul]

I would listen to that Chris guy, I assure you he knows what he is talking about 100%.